The Rhins

This is night No.94/2018 living in my caravan. It's my second night at the New England Bay C&MC Site on the Rhins of Galloway.

Yesterday was a wild night down here in Galloway. And it was also a new appreciation of my little Eriba caravan. It was so stormy that for the first time I lowered the roof for the night. It affects the headroom available, and you have to take care if (like me) your over 5' tall.

The van was very comfortable with the roof down. It was cozy, stable, and virtually silent despite the wild weather outside. I actually read that the construction and design of these vans, with the steel frame and aluminium and insulation sandwich, have (even in the 1950's) insulation values which were only recently achieved in conventional caravans.

With the roof down, it was a fine place to stay. Even had a glass of wine or two, and on a school night!

It was still windy when I got up around 0700 (after a sound sleep!). After breakfast, I didn't want to risk my dishes being scattered around Galloway, so opted for the onboard scrubbing facilities instead of the nearby dishwash area.

I think Bonnies guts are on the mend, and I reckon that she may have a touch of Colitis. It's a good idea to aid recovery by adding some fibre to their diet. I got a bag of frozen mixed veg from Lidl, and some 'sensitive' food for Bonnie. I've mixed this with their food and they love it.

Before going on a longer journey to tour the area, took the dogs down to the beach. Absolutely deserted.

It was still a very strong wind which was resulting in a bit of a sand storm.

The first place I wanted to visit was Ardwell Bay. I had seen it on the map and it involved around a 10min drive along single track roads and a dirt track. It was a fine sandy bay, again deserted! Interesting names of some of the landforms. The rocky outcrop top centre of this picture is 'Stinking Bight'

And the spit of land in this shot is known as 'Mary Wilson's Slunk'?

Had a good run around. It was grey but only a slight drizzle. I continued back along the road to a historic church and stones. Kirkmadrine. Now disused, there is a footpath into the churchyard.

This is an 1800's Church, but is on the site of a medieval Christian site of some importance.

In the gable end of the Church, a porch has been constructed to house the Kirkmadrine Stones. Medieval and believed to be the oldest Christian monuments in Scotland, outside Whithorn. Very well preserved and with some incredibly detailed engraving. Quite a collection.

The Church is closed of, but I could peep through one of the slit windows and the pulpit was still there, a very spooky feeling place.

Some of the gravestones in the cemetery go back a long way.

Quite a number were dated in the 1700's but many were just too weathered too make out.

We continued our tour, next stopping at the village of Portpatrick on the west side of the Rhins. I've been here before, its the start of the Southern Upland Way. I lugged a rucksack from here, across Scotland, all the way to Cocksburnspath near Dunbar. A lovely harbour village.

The hotel where I spent the night.

Made a visit to the local shop, I had to, it was John Gillespie's. I bought a rather fine pie to eat on the go, and took away 2 potato scones. A poster in the window proudly displays that this shop was the 2016/7 winner of Best Potato Scone in Scotland!

Took a walk around the harbour to the entrance with it's fine lighthouse. The sea was wild.

Again, not a day I'd wish to sail to Ireland.

I climbed the cliff path for a better view. Probably the finest place to visit in this part of Galloway.

We returned to the van in the early afternoon. The weather was improving, but still very windy. The temperature has also risen. Took the dogs along the coastal path, The Mull of Galloway Trail, to the next bay, at Logan Mills.


  1. Aye, living the dream indeed; wine and tattie scones midweek! Keep enjoying it, Iain, it's not doing anyone any harm. Looks a great area. I did wonder if that is the area where (I think you told me) the British Army tested the portable bridges for WWII? There is lots of un-noted history in that area. Reads as though the BBC Scotland storm warnings for Dumfries and Galloway were accurate. I hope the weather improves over the next few days. There is a chance some Scottish temperatures could top 20c on Wednesday. Let's hope you get some of that heat.

  2. Beautiful! Nice to see u enjoyed a wee vino too x


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